Shoe Outsole Design
The outsole design for a shoe plays a major factor in shoe performance. The outsoles for running shoes, biker boots, and football cleats all have very different performance requirements and manufacturing methods. The shoe outsole is also one of the most expensive parts of the shoe. For low-cost shoes, the cost of an outsole for a shoe can be 10% of the total cost, second only to the leather cost. For high-end basketball, running, or soccer shoes the outsole can be 25% to 35% of the shoe’s factory price. A simple cupsole may cost $2.00, while a multi-part running sole with carbon shank could cost $8.00 to $10.00.
A set of outsole tooling is by far the most expensive equipment needed to produce a shoe. While the cutting dies required to produce a shoe upper may cost $1,000 for a complete size run, a single size of outsole tooling is a minimum of $1,400. Now, multiply that by 14 sizes, and you get $19,600! This is the cost for a simple rubber cupsole.
Shoe Sole Tooling Costs
The cost for a complicated multi-part outsole with a rubber bottom, EVA midsole, and plastic shank plate may cost $100,000! Shoe companies must take great care in designing and developing new outsole tooling. Many shoe companies will only make one size for testing and sales samples. Only after their salesmen collect orders for the new model will the balance of the tooling be made.
I have seen designers and developers work for months to create a new design only to see production canceled before it even begins. When a weak sales report arrives, product managers have difficult choices to make.
Can you risk $100,000 in tooling for a model with just a hope that it will “catch on”? Small shoe companies may be forced to use old tooling on new models until they can afford the cost of new equipment. Outsole design is critically important! The design should know the outsole mold price when thinking about a new outsole design.
Outsole Design Performance factors
Performance factors for footwear outsole design includes traction, support, flexibility, weight, slip resistance, and durability. These features are a function of the design geometry and materials.
Outsole traction is an important feature of any shoe outsole. The design of the outsole pattern and selection of materials controls the amount
of traction. The traction requirements for hiking boots, of office shoes, boat, and bowling shoes are all radically different.
When designing an outsole, it is important to understand the environment and surfaces the outsole will encounter. Traction is also directional. A mountaineering boot will require lateral traction on rough terrain, while a basketball sole needs to support quick stops on a smooth wood surface and allow spins with the foot planted.
An outsole design must have some supportive feature to ensure users can walk or run safely. Support can come from wider bases or added components such as molded plastic counters or rubber cut soles. A fast, lightweight running shoe designed for speed may have little support, while a mountaineering boot will have a metal shank to carry the weight of a heavy pack in rough terrain.
Depending on the intended purpose of the shoe, the midsole will require more or less flexibility. A tennis shoe or running shoe must be flexible, while a cowboy boot will have a steel shank to spread the load of the stirrups without bending at all. While more flexibility is usually a good thing, too much flexibility can cause instability and lead to foot fatigue. The general rule is, the heavier the load and the rougher the terrain, the stiffer the outsole.
Again, depending on the intended purpose of the shoe, the weight of the outsole may be a key feature. For a long distance racing shoe or track spike, every gram is critical. For a driving shoe or biker boot, a heavy outsole is not a problem.
The durability requirements of an outsole will depend on the environment and tasks selected for the particular shoe. The fine leather soles of women’s dress shoes and men’s office shoes are perfect for smooth stone hallways and carpeted of offices, but would last only a few steps on a rainy construction site or mountain trail. Durability can be a selling feature for a shoe but may come at the expense of added weight or reduced flexibility.
Slip resistance is a key feature for many service shoes. Restaurant, hospital, maintenance, and warehouse staff members are required to wear shoes with certified slip-resistant rubber compounds and tread patterns. Oil resistant rubber compounds may also be a requirement for industrial footwear.
What are shoe soles made of?
The rubber cupsole is the standard for inexpensive and durable footwear. This style is called a “cup” sole because it “cups” the upper of the shoe. The cupsole is very common and can be found in many styles of footwear. Hiking boots, casual shoes, army boots, skate shoes, court shoes, and sometimes a stylized cupsole can be found on inexpensive running shoes. A cupsole may have a “drop-in” midsole made of EVA blocks or an “egg crate” midsole molded inside the outsole. A cupsole is made by compression molding uncured rubber into a mold, much like making waffles. Cupsole tooling can cost from $1,500 to $2,500 per size.
Compression molded EVA sole
This running shoe uses a dual density compression molded EVA midsole with rubber inserts and a carbon fiber shank. This is an expensive outsole to make as it requires molds for the EVA, rubber, and shank parts. The EVA midsole is made by first bonding two EVA preforms with the molded shank
in between. The final shape is made by compression molding. The compression molded rubber parts are glued on in a separate operation. The tooling to make
sole unit will cost approximately $6,000
Injection molded outsole
This baseball cleat outsole is made by the injection molding process. Cleated shoes for soccer, football, and baseball require stiff supportive bottoms. This outsole requires a plastic injection mold. Complicated designs with several over molded colors require an expensive mold. Simple designs require
a less expensive mold. Cleats with metal spikes or inserts require over molding or insert molding processes. This type of plastic injection requires a specialized molding machine and is done outside of the shoe factory by a subcontractor. Tooling cost can be $3,500 to $5,500 per size.
Further reading on the subject of shoe soles
If you want to learn more about how to make rubber shoe soles? What are shoe soles made of? The common shoe sole manufacturing process? What shore hardness is good for shoe soles? How are the Nike outsoles are made and other shoe soles like airbag midsoles, TPR (Thermo Plastic Rubber) outsoles, vulcanized outsoles, EVA wedge midsoles and welted leather soles, you need to read chapter 12 of the Shoe Material Design Guide.
Learn more about making shoes:Do you want to learn how big brands make shoes? Now you can! How Shoes are Made will show you how modern shoes come to life! More than just a tour through a sneaker factory and more than your average shoe making book! This is the perfect Shoe design a handbook for footwear designers. From drawing shoe designs to sample development and footwear manufacturing, you will learn how it is all done. Written by veteran shoemaking pros, How Shoes are Made will give you a look inside the REAL world of shoe design, development, and mass production. This book teaches shoe making for beginners and students. 220 pages with over 400 color photos and drawings. 26 chapters explaining shoe design, footwear pattern making, sample development, footwear materials selection, upper stitching, outsole and tooling design, shoe lasts, shoe costing, quality inspections, pattern making and much more! A must-read for young shoe designers, sneakerheads, or any footwear fanatic! Secure payments Visa, MasterCard & PayPal. Over 3500 copies sold! Read in over 60 countries!
Ready for Download Now! Edición española See Preview Video On YouTube
Print Edition Now Available!
Table of Contents:The Design Process, Shoe Development, Shoe Patterns, Shoe Specifications, Outsole Tooling, Development Process, Pre-Production, Material Preparation, Stitching Operations, Rubber Pressing, EVA Forming, The Assembly Line, The Shoe Last, Footwear Costing, Importing Shoes, Shoe Logo Design, Leather for Shoes, Textiles for Shoes ,Synthetics for Shoes, Foam for Shoes, Know Your Footbeds, Material Suppliers, Shoe Designers Tools, Jobs in the Shoe Trade ,Quality Control, Starting a Shoe Company, Life at a Shoe Factory, Shoe Making Dictionary
If you want to learn more, check out our new books.
Print Editions and Instant Downloads Available Now!
Shoemaking Books / Go to Shoemaking Tools
E-Book edition 220 pages. PC and Mac compatible PDF file. Download Now!
E-Book edition 195 pages. PC and Mac compatible PDF file. Download Now!
E-Book edition 170 pages. PC and Mac compatible PDF file. Download Now!
Print Edition, 250 Pages with over 400 color photos and drawings.
Print edition 330 color photos, 28 Chapters, 195 Pages order today!
Print Edition, 220 pages with over 400 color photos and drawings.
Two softcover books, paper pattern and Blue Print. Free downloads included!
Two PFD E-books, paper pattern and Blue Print. Download Now!
The triple download of all three Sneaker Factory publications.
Start-up your Own Shoe Company
E-Book edition 170 pages. Profit margin and Size run calculators. Download Now!
A must have for anyone serious about launching a new footwear company!
A must have for anyone serious about launching a new footwear company!