What is a Shoe Pattern?

The shoe pattern is the shape of all the parts needed to make a shoe.  The shoe pattern is cut in 2D but once the pattern parts are assembled the shoe upper is lasted to set the 3D shape. You can learn more about lasts and lasting in the articles About Shoe Lasts and Shoe Lasting.

Pattern = Parts

The pattern is the template for all the shoe parts. To make a shoe you will need many pattern parts cut from many different materials. Even a simple shoe design may require more than 30 cut pattern parts. More parts are required inside in the shoe than outside the shoe to make all the inner lining and reinforcing parts. Once on the shoe assembly line, the workers follow the sewing pattern for the shoes to create the uppers.

When a new shoe is being developed, the pattern maker, or pattern cutter, will create a forme from the last. The forme is simply the 3D surface of the last laid flat to paper. Once the forme is created the 2D pattern can be drawn. See how to make your own shoe pattern.

Taped Last Method

A shoe pattern maker may use the taped last method to cut the shoe pattern. In this technique, the pattern maker will layer masking tape onto the last, then draw the design directly onto the surface.  Once the design is finished, the entire taped panel can be removed or the design can be cut off the last piece by piece.  There is no right or wrong way, for the pattern master it is a matter of preference.

Computer Created Patterns

Today, we have CAD CAM software that a designer can use to “draw” the pattern onto the computer model of the last. This is a more advanced way to create patterns but there is still an art to holding the last in your hand and marking the design by eye.

Shoe pattern cutting is a special skill. While it is not hard to cut your own patterns step by step, it takes years to truly master the craft of pattern making. There are many books on the subject of pattern cutting.  Here is a good one by Frank Jones.  

You can download a real factory pattern for a classic trainer here.

Learn more about making shoes:

Do you want to learn how big brands make shoes?  Now you can!  How Shoes are Made will show you how modern shoes come to life! More than just a tour through a sneaker factory and more than your average shoe making book!  This is the perfect Shoe design a handbook for footwear designers.  From drawing shoe designs to sample development and footwear manufacturing, you will learn how it is all done. Written by veteran shoemaking pros, How Shoes are Made will give you a look inside the REAL world of shoe design, development, and mass production. This book teaches shoe making for beginners and students. 220 pages with over 400 color photos and drawings. 26 chapters explaining shoe design, footwear pattern making, sample development, footwear materials selection, upper stitching, outsole and tooling design, shoe lasts, shoe costing, quality inspections, pattern making and much more!  A must-read for young shoe designers, sneakerheads, or any footwear fanatic! Secure payments Visa, MasterCard & PayPal. Over 3500 copies sold! Read in over 60 countries!
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Table of Contents:

The Design Process, Shoe Development, Shoe Patterns, Shoe Specifications, Outsole Tooling, Development Process, Pre-Production, Material Preparation, Stitching Operations, Rubber Pressing, EVA Forming, The Assembly Line, The Shoe Last, Footwear Costing, Importing Shoes, Shoe Logo Design, Leather for Shoes, Textiles for Shoes ,Synthetics for Shoes,  Foam for Shoes, Know Your Footbeds, Material Suppliers, Shoe Designers Tools, Jobs in the Shoe Trade ,Quality Control, Starting a Shoe Company, Life at a Shoe Factory, Shoe Making Dictionary

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