About Shoe Lasts

About Shoe Lasts

The Shoe Last (Practical Handbook for Shoe Designers)What is a shoe last?  The shoe last is the form used to define the shape of the shoe. The last is critical to the shape and function of your shoe. The shoe last used by the factory will decide the look, fit, and shape of the shoe. The right last can make your shoe a high fashion hit! The wrong last can make your design look like an ill-fitting brick.  The Pattern Master creates the shoe pattern to fit the last tightly. Each different type of shoe will need its own specific shape of last. The shoe last for a running shoe has a very different shape than a last used for a hiking boot or basketball shoe.

 shutterstock_304861490 all about shoe lasts Shape, Fit, Performance, and Style

The last determines the shape, fit, performance, ergonomics, and style of a shoe. There are many different types of shoe lasts. Shoe lasts can be injection molded plastic, carved wood, or cast from aluminum. The shoe last is the starting point of making any shoe design. The last is what makes a shoe suitable for playing basketball, climbing mountains, or strutting down the runway.

When discussing the many attributes of a last you will need to know the common terms.  The majority of shoe last measurements are measured by volume around the last, rather than the traditional length and width associated with shoe fit. A flexible measuring tape is a key tool for checking lasts.

Parts of a Shoe Last – Shoe Last Diagram
The parts of a shoe last all about shoe designs

The parts of the shoe last include the forepart, instep, cone, back part, waist, and seat. If the last is hinged it will have a vent above the hinge point. A hinge is needed to prevent damaging a shoe when it is being removed from the last. Shoe lasts may have tiny bumps marking the vamp point, toppling point, and counterpoints.  The last terms are the same for men’s sports shoes or women’s fashion shoes.

Shoe Last Measurements

 shoe last drawings about shoe lasts What is a shoe last
Shoe Last Stick Length: Measured from the longest points at the toe and heel.
Shoe Last Ball Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the ball of the last.
Shoe Last Instep Girth: Measured with a flexible tape over the instep of the last.
Shoe Last Waist Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the waist of the last.
Shoe Last Toe Spring and Heel Lift:  Are are measured with the back of last held parallel to the ground.

Last Stick Length: Measured from the longest points at the toe and heel. Last Ball Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the ball of the last. Last Instep Girth: Measured with a flexible tape over the shoe instep of the last. Last Waist Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the waist of the last. Last Toe Spring and Heel Lift: Are are measured with the back of last held parallel to the ground.Last Bottom Length: Measured on the bottom of the last. A flexible tape pressed to the surface.
Last Ball Width: Measured with a flexible tape across the ball of the last.
Last Instep Width: Measured with a flexible across over the instep of the last.
Last Waist Width: Measured with a flexible tape across the waist of the last.

Heavy paper templates or last gauges are cut by computers. The gauges are marked with critical dimensions, the last size, and code number. The paper gauges are used to check every size of the sample lasts.  Once the last fitting has been confirmed, the same paper gauges are used to confirm the production lasts.

Last Stick Length: Measured from the longest points at the toe and heel. Last Ball Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the ball of the last. Last Instep Girth: Measured with a flexible tape over the shoe instep of the last. Last Waist Girth: Measured with a flexible tape around the waist of the last. Last Toe Spring and Heel Lift: Are are measured with the back of last held parallel to the ground.

 

You can see how lasts are made Here         You can download a last for 3D printing Here 

shoe last shapesWant to learn more about shoe last design, shoe last making, wood lasts, plastic lasts, and metal lasts? Check out chapter 13 in the book
How Shoes are Made.

Learn more about making shoes:

Footwear design book Free PFD Shoe Design Book Download जूते कैसे बनते हैंDo you want to learn how big brands make shoes?  Now you can!  How Shoes are Made will show you how modern shoes come to life! More than just a tour through a sneaker factory and more than your average shoe making book!  This is the perfect Shoe design a handbook for footwear designers.  From drawing shoe designs to sample development and footwear manufacturing, you will learn how it is all done. Written by veteran shoemaking pros, How Shoes are Made will give you a look inside the REAL world of shoe design, development, and mass production. 220 pages with over 400 color photos and drawings. 26 chapters explaining shoe design, footwear pattern making, sample development, footwear materials selection, upper stitching, outsole and tooling design, shoe lasts, shoe costing, quality inspections, pattern making and much more!  A must-read for young shoe designers, sneakerheads, or any footwear fanatic! Secure payments Visa, MasterCard & PayPal. Over 3500 copies sold! Read in over 60 countries!
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Table of Contents:

The Design Process, Shoe Development, Shoe Patterns, Shoe Specifications, Outsole Tooling, Development Process, Pre-Production, Material Preparation, Stitching Operations, Rubber Pressing, EVA Forming, The Assembly Line, The Shoe Last, Footwear Costing, Importing Shoes, Shoe Logo Design, Leather for Shoes, Textiles for Shoes ,Synthetics for Shoes,  Foam for Shoes, Know Your Footbeds, Material Suppliers, Shoe Designers Tools, Jobs in the Shoe Trade ,Quality Control, Starting a Shoe Company, Life at a Shoe Factory, Shoe Making Dictionary

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