The Process of Making Nike Shoes
How are Nike shoes made? Most Nike shoes are made by cold cement construction process. If you want to learn how to design shoes you need to know this basic shoemaking process. Cold cement is the modern updated style of shoe construction.
Vans and Converse shoes use high heat vulcanized shoe construction, while Nike’s cold cement shoe construction allows the use of modern lightweight plastic, foam, and mesh materials due to the low temperatures required for bonding the upper to the shoe sole. Every modern high-performance athletic shoe manufactured by Nike for running, basketball, etc… is made by this cold cement process. Every Air Jordan basketball shoe for the Jordan 1 to the Jordan 30+ is made by the cold cement process. This is how Nike makes all of its performance athletic shoes.
Cold Cement Shoe Assembly Process:
In the cold cement process, the shoe upper can be prepared with the strobel bottom. For this classic jogger style, the outsole covers the edge upper so a strobel bottom can be used to make the shoe lighter and more flexible.
The upper is steamed to soften the materials and the last is inserted and pulled tight. Once the last is tight inside the upper a second lasting machine pulls the heel edge. Once the last is secured inside the upper and temporary shoelaces are pulled tight, the upper is cooled to shrink the upper tight to the last.
The shoe may have a plastic or fabric part installed on top of the tongue to protect the surface from damage and drift during the lasting operations.
While the upper is being lasted the sole unit is being prepared. In this case, the rubber sheet sole is combined with the EVA foam cushioning component cemented inside. This is done in a separate process that’s called stock fitting.
Primer and Cement:
Now that the upper is lasted tightly and the outside unit is complete, the two pieces come together. The rubber sole unit will receive coatings of primer and cement. The outsole will get its own special primer designed for EVA and rubber. The shoe upper is also prepared with its own special primer and cement.
After the contact cement and primer has been completely dried in the heating tunnels the two pieces are joined together by hand. The skilled worker aligns the upper and outsole together, then places the shoe in a hydraulic press.
Pressing, cooling, and de-lasting
The shoe will have 3 pressing operations, usually, all done with one machine. A vertical press, toe and heel press, and side presses. This ensures there is full contact between the upper and outsole. Once the shoe is pressed together it’s often put in the cooling tunnel to set the glue.
After the cooling tunnel, a shoe de-lasting machine is used to push the last out of the shoe without wrinkling the upper.
Now the sneaker is complete. At this point, you can insert the footbed. The footbed may be molded EVA with a fabric cover or flat sheet cut foam. The flat die-cut footbed is usually cemented inside the shoe, while molded footbeds are most often removable.
The new sneaker is ready for a final QC inspection, a quick check for any loose threads, cleaning and packing.
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How Shoes are Made.
Learn more about making shoes:Do you want to learn how big brands make shoes? Now you can! How Shoes are Made will show you how modern shoes come to life! More than just a tour through a sneaker factory and more than your average shoe making book! From drawing shoe designs to sample development and footwear manufacturing, you will learn how it is all done. Written by veteran shoemaking pros, How Shoes are Made will give you a look inside the REAL world of shoe design, development, and mass production. 220 pages with over 400 color photos and drawings. 26 chapters explaining shoe design, footwear pattern making, sample development, footwear materials selection, upper stitching, outsole and tooling design, shoe lasts, shoe costing, quality inspections, starting you own shoe brand, and much more! A must read for young shoe designers, sneaker heads, or any footwear fanatic! Over 2500 copies sold! Read in 60 Countries! See Preview Video On YouTube
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Table of Contents:The Design Process, Shoe Development, Shoe Patterns, Shoe Specifications, Outsole Tooling, Development Process, Pre-Production, Material Preparation, Stitching Operations, Rubber Pressing, EVA Forming, The Assembly Line, The Shoe Last, Footwear Costing, Importing Shoes, Shoe Logo Design, Leather for Shoes, Textiles for Shoes ,Synthetics for Shoes, Foam for Shoes, Know Your Footbeds, Material Suppliers, Shoe Designers Tools, Jobs in the Shoe Trade ,Quality Control, Starting a Shoe Company, Life at a Shoe Factory, Shoe Making Dictionary
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